Alexander Ivanov

Trip to Andalusia Tracing the Country of Sefarad

Summery

The article is written in a form of travel notes. The author visited the main cities of Andalusia searching for architectural and historical monuments of Jewish culture there. He tried to reconstruct some distinctive features of the legendary Sefardi civilization which had been flourishing in Spain till the expulsion of the Jews at the end of the 15th cent.

The Andalusian Jewry reached its zenith in the time of Muslim Spain. At that time the great Jewish communities of Cordoba, Seville, Granada, and Malaga competed in the number and intellectual caliber of their inhabitants. This brilliant Jewish life began to shine in the Caliphate of Abd-al-Rahman III when the doctor and counseller of the latter, Hasday ibbn Saprut, attracted under his patronage poets, philosophers and scientists who brought great prestige to the Cordovan Jewry. It was here that what has been called the Golden Age of Hebrew literature was born. At the same time the Talmudic studies reached such a height that thanks to them the rabbinic academy became the center of attention for all the Jews in the world at that time. The great Maimonides had his origin in the center of Jewish intellectual life.

One can learned about history of Cordovan Jewish community if he visit the Calahorra Tower Museum in Cordoba. The latest modern technologies there have been employed to bring a lot of information about the period in Andalusian history when Muslims, Jews, and Christians created a multi ethnical culture which started the first European Renaissance.

At the present time one can find well preserved beautiful medieval synagogue, the only one left today of the several that used to be in Cordoba. The building is situated in the heart of the Jewish quarter called Juderia which now is the busiest part of the city. It covers the large area between the Almodavar Gate (Juderia Gate) and the great world famous mosque.

In Seville the most interesting part of the city is the former Jewish quarter called Santa Cruz. Three of the synagogues that used to be there are still standing, all of them converted into churches. The most famous one is that of Santa Maria la Blanca. The author describes this building and mentions some interesting present day folk customs which deals with Jews of Seville.

Hardly anything remains of the glorious Jewish past of Granada. The Jewish quarter there has some very picturesque and interesting corners such as Plaza del Realejo where a statue of Juda ibn Tibbon the famous translator, was erected. In Granada there are other Jewish reminiscences, sad and unfortunate. It was in Alhambra, in the Ambassadors Salon? That the Catholic Monarchs signed the decree for expelling the Jews from Spain in 1491.

In Malaga, before it was conquered by the Catholic Monarchs, the Jjewish quarter covered a large area between the castle Alcasaba and the Central town square. In the gardens near the Alcasaba a beautiful statue of the illustrioous poet Solomon ibn Gabirol was erected there.

The article can be used as a historical guide by tourists being interested in Jewish history and culture of Andalusia.